A few weeks back with our Social Group we decide to attend the Jindo Sea Parting and Holi Hai. Since they were both happening in the same weekend we ended up signing up for a tour with a group based in Korea. It was a really good decision in the end. Not only did we end up going to two awesome festivals in one weekend, but we also didn't have to plan any bus routes or book and hotel which I thin made the whole trip even more enjoyable and it was only 105,000 won so it was a pretty good deal.
The trip start in Jindo then we spent the night in Boseong then went to Busan early in the morning on Sunday. Everyone got to the bus station early Saturday morning... and by early I mean before 9 am, so early for me. We had a 4 hour bus trip to Jindo. It went really smoothly I thought. Although it was awkward with the pee breaks. I went almost every time we stopped, but still ended up having to go really badly at the end of the trip. Still, it was really fun. I sat with Julianne and we get along fairly well so we just chatted or did our own thing the entire time and we were both content.
When we got there we immediately went to look at the ocean. It was a foggy day, but not too cool and still pretty sunny. I guess I should interject here and talk about the festival. Each year when the tide gets really low the sea 'parts' in this one area where there's a kind of sand bar or underwater spit and you can walk across to an island called Modo. The distance is about 3 km. Thousands of tourists come every year to walk across to the island and enjoy cultural festivities. Sounds pretty neat, right?
So when we arrived the tide was still in and it wasn't much to look at. They have a whole festival when the season for the low tide starts with tons of food, drinks, and cultural activities. There were jindo dogs which is a famous korean dog breed from the area. If you google jindo that's pretty much the only thing that comes up. Apparently they are known for their intelligence, they were beautiful looking dogs too.
We got some boots to walk out into the parting right off the bat, or at least I did and Michael. I wasn't sure what the boot situation would be like inside the festival so I decide I should get something right away. If you saw my pictures then you saw how ridiculous looking these boots were, but they worked great. Despite being thinner than a rubber boot they didn't leak at all and despite my lack of belt looks to attach the suspenders to (I wrapped them around my thighs) they stayed up really well. And everyone was wearing them looking ridiculous so it really didn't matter.
We wandered around for while, not sure how far the festival went or what to do first. People kept offering us samples of seaweed, turmeric and booze which we happily accepted. I found out that jindo is famous for their turmeric, not a spice I usually associate with Korea. We tried to find the dog show that was supposed to be happening, but ended up getting distracted by food and a ssireum (korean wrestling) demonstration. Julianne and I found some yummy Japanese food with eggs, some cabbage, batter of some sort, bbq sauce bacon, octopus and various other tasty things. It wasn't like anything I'd had before, but it was so so delicious. I forgot what it's called, but I'd have another one in a heart beat.
We also found puppies when we were walking around. Jindo puppies. They were extremely soft and cute looking. Really adorable faces and super relaxed, but friendly little guys. There were a ton of cute Korean kids in the pen to add to the cuteness. Jackie and Julianne kidnapped one little puppy and smothered him with love (not literally, but almost). The puppy was sooooo soft and sleek. I was in love. I sorta want a jindo dog if I were ever to get a dog, but my friend said they were expensive so it probably won't happen. Still, they are beautiful dogs.
They also had singing, dancings, skits and activities like painting. We watch a few of the performances. They were all pretty awesome, there were girls dancing and singing in traditional costumes, a short, but funny skit of a mean guy and his servant teasing him then drummers playing traditional music in traditional costumes and last soldiers doing army drills to k-pop songs and dancing a little sexily which was hilarious. I think my friend took a video. We got some visors when we were at the performance and wore them like all the older ladies around us, they were difficult to keep on until we realized we had forgotten to fold one of the flaps down.
After watching the performances we went and found some food. I got a gukbap which just means soup and rice which is a type of traditional korean meal (I think) it was a beef soup with a bunch of veggies and rice in the soup which I hadn't had before. We also had some magkoli, a korean fermented rice wine. It is delicious, I recommend trying it if you can get your hands on some. So tasty. This stuff was especially 'smooth' as my friend put it.
After food we wandered around a bit more then it was finally time for the sea parting. Everyone got their awesome thigh high boots on and we followed the crowd out into the water. The water hadn't gone out completely so it was really great that we had the boots because it allowed us to just wade through the parts where there was still water. Although I felt sorry for the people had chose to wear their own shows or boots.
It was pretty cool being that far out in the ocean. It kinda felt like you should be on a boat or small island, although at the same time it took me back to hanging out at the beach at Deep Cove when the tide goes out really far. It felt both very familiar and strange at the same time. The scenery was beautiful. It was foggy still, but the sun was starting to get lower and looked hazy through the softened sky making everything feel a little surreal. There were boats off in the distance and the water seemed to merge into the sky when you let your eye go that far.
There were thousands of people at this event, lots of them foreigners. For all of us from Changwon it was definitely strange seeing that many foreigners in one place and hearing that much English spoken. Normally in Changwon if you're in a group over ten foreigners that's a lot, but at this festival the foreigners were definitely in the thousands. It was fun to see the stuff some people dressed in to. Someone was dressed as moses (of course) but I didn't see him. I did see a couple dressed like waldo and another one dressed like the guy from the Steve Zissou from the Aquatic life, although I don't know if that's what they were going for.
My favourite part of this festival was definitely walking out for the sea parting. I found out after why they do the walk and I thought it was really sad, but beautiful. Apparently there's a story about the island Modo, that it used to be inhabited with tigers, well there was a family living there and the tigers drove them away except the grandmother who stayed on the island. Well another creature (I forgot what it was) felt bad for her and showed her a route to get off of the island were the water was shallower. She followed the route to find her family, but because she was weak and old she couldn't make it all the way across. Luckily her family was also looking for her and walking along the same path, unfortunately she collapsed before they got there and ended up dying in her family's arms. So to this day Korean's walk from both Modo island and Jindo and they meet in the middle. They take two different coloured ribbons from each side then tie them in the middle. ribbons looked really cool stretch out into the spit of land. And yes, this is the story of the old lady and tiger statue I posted... in case you were wondering.
When we were doing the sea crossing there were tons of older Korean's out on the beach harvesting seaweed and lots more out along the sand bar harvesting clams. They didn't seem to give a shit when the guy announced that the tide was coming in. Lots of them brought bags and were filling them and as it's isn't a one time phenomena I had to wonder if they came every low tide to collect seaweed and clams.
After we finished the walk, which I unfortunately never made to Modo we had some time to kill before our bus left so we hung around the food tents and got some snacks. Julianne and I split a giant deep fried squid which has apparently become a thing here. It was pretty tasty, like a giant calamari on a stick, but spicier and whole. The other people in our group wanted food from Turkey's booth (there were international food booths) but the line was really long so we ended up giving up on that. Still, we all went away happy and full.
After the sea parting we hopped on our bus and headed to Boseong where we would stay the night. Boseong is apparently really famous for their green tea and beautiful landscape. We were just staying the night then moving on so we didn't have time to spend a lot of time there. The trip from the festival to the hotel was about 2 hours, why so far you ask? Because we wanted to get closer to busan so we wouldn't have to travel so far in the morning when we were all sleepy, thus allowing us to sleep in more as well.
The hotel we stayed in was fairly nice and luckily we were able to pick our group for the hotel room so it was just everyone in our group, plus two other people who got assigned to our group. Since the tour we'd singed up for had over 200 people going from different cities in the country it was a little crazy at the hotel. They only had the convenience store open by the time we got there (sometime after 9 pm) so it was crazy. We all wanted to get some proper food in us, but only thing they seemed to food-wise was instant ramen. I know that doesn't sound really appealing to most westerners, but instant ramen is different in Korea. First off, it is a little bit higher quality and second it just tastes better and they have lots of different kinds. It's also really popular. Like I've seen Korean's in the grocery store with huge flats of their favourite ramen. So that's a thing here. I didn't get ramen in the end, because I wasn't really that hungry and needed to get some rest for our 6 am wake up call.
Back in the hotel room, after surviving the crazy line, getting some juk (rice porridge) then realizing I needed to go back to the convenience store to heat it up I finally got to relax, drink and beer and discuss the day with everyone. It was the perfect end of a long, but very memorable day.
The next morning we were up at 6 am to leave at 6:50 for Busan since we needed to be there before noon for Holi Hai. Luckily the night before Sujin and I had made hard boiled eggs so we ate those and then got back on the bus, there was a lot of busing this weekend, yet some how the bus ride was pretty relaxing and not that stressful (for me anyway). I think it's because Korean buses are really comfortable with nice comfy, large seats. My friend told me that Korean's like to sleep when they travel so I think that could explain the comfortable seating.
The bus ride was pretty fun. As we left Boseong we drove by some of its famous valleys and tea fields. It was so beautiful in the misty morning (mist was a thing this entire trip). It looked like another world from the crowded cities full of high rises and neon lights. Korea is like that. One minutes your looking at rows of apartments and the next your watch rolling hills and fields go by. It's kind of awesome. Anyway, this was one of the most beautiful places I've seen in Korea. The valley seemed endless and untouched. Apparently it's known for it's beauty and I definitely need to go back there.
When we started to get close to Busan the trip coordinator brought out some face paints and some how Jackie got roped into painting everyones face (she was the only artist in the group... I still owe her a beer for that one!). Most of us went for neon coloured dots, but I also got some swirls added into the mix. It looked pretty festive. Everyone had been instructed to wear white for the festival so the colours would show up better. And you should definitely 100% wear something you don't care about staining cause the amount of paint you get on yourself is insane, especially if you're like me and keep heading back into the crowd.
I was really excited to be going to Haeundae beach because it is a really famous beach in Korea and super popular in the summer. We all agreed after we got there that we would be coming back like everyone other weekend. Seriously. It was also so warm I had brought a sweatshirt I didn't want in case it was cool, but the temperature got up to around 20 that day, possibly a bit higher. When we arrived at the festival they gave us a pack of colour powder to throw and apparently rub all over everyone, and a free samosa and drink. The samosa's were really tasty.
We had a bit of time to kill before the festival started so we just hung out by the water, of course we all had to test how cold the water was. It was pretty cold. After eating, Jackie, Dave, Michael, Sujin and I all decide to go to the convenience store, unfortunately when we got there the line was huge with all people wearing at least one piece of white. I guess everyone else had the same idea. We finally gave up waiting or we were going to miss the opening of the festival. We got back just in time. I was so relived.
There was a count down and everyone threw chalk in the air at the same time. It looked really pretty. I wanted a picture, but honestly I doubt it would've shown up the well and I didn't want to get powder on my camera. The powder was scented so when everyone threw their powder in the air the whole area smelled like perfume or flowers. It wasn't a bad smell at all, but I'm not sure what it was.
After the powder throwing was when the fun really started. There was dj and people were just hanging out, dance and throwing powder at each other on the beach. Unfortunately I didn't know to save some powder and threw all mine at the beginning so I had no powder to throw on anyone, but that didn't seem to stop people from throwing powder at me.
It was really funny because my friends and I were off to the side a bit so we ended up only getting each others powder on us and we all had the same two colours: green and yellow. So at the beginning I only had green and yellow powder on me, but ended up with every colour under the sun by the end of the day. Some of us wanted to hang out and dance while others wanted to chill on the beach. We attempted to enter the crowd with everyone, but it fell apart pretty fast. I went back in for another round and it was pretty fun, just dancing and laughing and having some random dude rub paint all over your face... yep, that was a thing. I ended up with far more paint and powder on me than in the beginning. Also, for some reason people kept starting conga lines and every time I got swept up in it.
Finally I escaped the crowd and the endless conga lines. I hung out in the beach for awhile and for some reason decided it was a good idea to run into the ocean with a jackie and another girl... I will admit that beer and soju may have played a part in this decision. One thing about Korea that I still find a bit strange is public drinking is not illegal so you can just have a beer at the beach... quite a few people were doing this. It was pretty cold, but really refreshing...expect when it was too cold and I was gasping for breathe for about 20-30 seconds, that wasn't really that fun, but after was good and it was nice to get some of the paint off, especially my face cause it was getting hard to move the face muscles.
After the ocean dip everyone was pretty cold and we left the beach not long after. We changed and scrubbed our faces in the bathroom with mul tissue some girl was kind enough to give us. Finally, we went and got some yummy bibimbap and soup. I think it was around 4-4:30 at this point and our bus wasn't leaving until 6. Since most of us were tired from the early morning we decide to go catch a regular bus back to Changwon. I was pretty happy with this decision because I was about ready to fall asleep.
Michael and Lori opted to stay behind because they wanted to check out a lighthouse, I was tempted to join them but my tiredness won that time. The other guy with our group had already left with some new friends for India food. The rest of us headed home. We all just really wanted hot showers and sleep by this point, although I did feel a bit guilty to leave the beautiful sunny day behind me and when I got back to Changwon it wasn't nearly as warm. I realized this when I jumped off the bus in my shorts and tee shirt and immediately regretted not putting on tights and a sweater.
Surprisingly my biggest worry about the colour not coming out of my hair was unfounded it washed out beautifully, although I still washed it twice to make sure and rinsed it extra well. I don't know if you can tell from my photos, but my hair and face got the brunt of the colour attack.
In all it was amazing weekend. The Jindo Sea Parting festival was definitely an amazing phenomena to see. Even though I'm an island girl and I've seen some pretty awesome beaches that was definitely and unique experience and the festival just made it more fun. Holi Hai in Busan was a crazy, colourful mess and I loved every minute of it. Plus Haeundae beach is my new favourite place and I just want to spend the whole summer there soaking up the sun there. I will definitely do more of these types of festivals they make this year in Korea so memorable and it was a great way to bond with my friends here and create some really lasting memories together. Oh gosh, this is sound cheesy I better finish up here. Anyway, I hope you enjoy this post and it sheds some light on how Korean cultural events are hosted. I hope to go to some more awesome things in the coming months. Apparently spring and summer is the time of festivals for Korea. I'm excited for the summer season!