Gyeongju: Korea's Ancient Capital

Gyeongju was flat and open and wide. It is the most 'Korean' Korean city I've visited.When I arrived there I was surprised how open and wide it felt, there were no giant apartments towering above the city, most of the house were lower and slightly more old-fashioned.  It had an atmosphere like a museum or an park that encompassed the entire town. There were giant burial mounds everywhere, which came out of the flat ground without warning, gently sloping upwards. There were also parks everywhere with small, neat forests, beautiful gardens and fancy pavilions. The style and feel of the town felt old. It felt like going back in time a little bit, but it still had all the modern day features and the downtown area was similar to normal Korean cities.

I think I need to back up here and explain why Gyeongju is special. It is the ancient capital of Korea, during the Silla dynasty (a few dynasties ago I think). There was a giant palace there and you can still see the beautiful pond. This is also where they discovered the burial mounds of ancient rulers which apparently were discovered by a man working on his house, he found a gold crown in one. The people of Gyeongju seem very proud of their history, of the history of Korea, as most Korean's do and they rightfully should be. The parks were amazing in this town, larger than ones you usually saw for temples and palaces. They were also very peaceful, even with lots of people they were so spread out and calm it was hard not to relax in them.

The first day we arrived in Gyeongju it was Saturday, we decide to start by going around and exploring some of the parks they were wonderful, as I just described. Honestly, it's hard to do them justice in a written description, but they were just how you imagine Korea before all the industrialism and development, well a little, they were to well curated, clean and neat to be real in a sense. Still, they were probably my favourite part of Gyeongju.

After we explore most of the parks and the old palace site we went for lunch (by this time we were starving). We got a local speciality which is called ssam bap which just means rice wraps. It had many many side dishes as well as rice wraps. It had lots of dishes I'd never seen and was delicious.

During lunch another friend of mine met up with us at the restaurant and said we should visit Yangdong Folk Village, a traditional style village just outside of Gyeongju. We thought that sounded awesome so we agreed to go. We had a little trouble with the buses because we couldn't seem to find the stop for the bus that was supposed to take us there. We finally ended up getting a cab, which wasn't too expensive when split between four of us.

The village was another highlight for me. It was so big! And people actually live in it! Amazing. It had traditional style Korean houses, lots of them even had thatched roofs. There were plants and gardens everywhere and people too, not just tourists visiting, but people just living there lives. Since people lived in the houses you couldn't go inside any, although there were a couple cafes and restaurants around. The village was all over the hills, not just flat as Korean cities often are. We ended up walking up a hill near the edge of the village and we had a lovely view of the surrounding area and the village.

Earlier,  before going into the village we'd all stopped at a convenience store for some snacks and crystal ate some ramen. While she was eating the little boy at the table next to ours was watching us curiously, he came over and we all all fawned over him. His family seemed fine with it, until Crystal put on her sunglasses and for some reason that scared him and he started crying. She attempted to show him the glasses were harmless, but he was still scared, so we left the family alone after apologizing.

Later, when we were climbing one of the hills inside the village we found the same family sitting at the top of the hill eating some traditional Korean candy. We said hi to them again and Crystal went over to greet the little boy. The mom kindly offered us all some candy, which was very hard, it was a kind of white taffy like stuff, it sort of melted in your mouth and then became more chewy. It tasted like pure sugar. I made the mistake of taking a larger piece and was stuck with it for awhile.

When we were walking in we also saw a beautiful school, you couldn't go inside it because it was a operating school, but Crystal said she had a friend who worked there, gosh I envied her in that moment. The school had a more traditional architecture style and wasn't the regular three block of cement that Korean schools usually are. Also, her friend go free entrance to the folk village (which cost 4,000 won).

After we finished at the village I was pretty much exhausted from the full day of travel and walking. We headed back to Gyeongju and Crystal headed back to her town of Pohang. When we got back we decided we needed to stop off at the hostel first (where we'd dropped off our bags earlier) and then head out to find some food. The hostel was a big, two story Korean style home. It had a beautiful little garden and court yard area when you went through the gate (typical of Korean houses, especially more traditional ones). There was a lot of beautiful wood work inside and it felt really comfortable and homey to me, it was comfortably cluttered inside the house, but the room we stayed in was simple and clean, it had beds rather than the ondol style sleeping (sleeping on a mat on the floor) which many guest houses and hostels I've stayed in have so that was nice.

The bathrooms were outside though, which was a little annoying and the showers were the kind where the whole bathroom is a shower (ie they don't have a stall) this is pretty normal in Korea, my own place doesn't have a stall. The whole bathroom is just tiled and there's a shower head.

We went out for jjimdak (steamed chicken) which is a great, cheap meal to get when you're hungry. I might have complained about all the walking a bit because the first place we went to find the restaurant it wasn't there! Disaster. Michael asked someone about it and she told us the actual location of the restaurant, which was luckily near by. The food was delicious. Jjimdak has a spicy, soy sauce sauce, pieces of chicken, potato, glass noodles, and other bits of veggies. We also got rice with it because it has a ton of sauce to soak up. You get it on this giant plate and it looks like an endless about of food and it pretty much was, even with the three of us eating we still didn't finish everything.

After dinner we decided we wanted to try the local Makeolli (kind of traditional rice wine) since everywhere in Korea makes there own (it doesn't travel well I've heard). We found some in a CU (convenience store, Korea is handy that way). Then we headed back to the hostel. It was actually a beautiful night but a little chilly now. When we got back we set ourselves up in the living room with our makeolli and some cards, we never actually played cards (although michael played solitaire for a bit). I discovered a whole stack of beautiful photos someone had taken in and around Gyeongju. I spent a good long time looking at those and then we saw some of the other hostel guests and Lori began chatting with them so we all sat around comfortably talking to different people from around the world. As I thought, the hostel had a really good vibe. We met a girl from the czech republic (I think?) who was there for a conference, but she had finished and was now traveling around. She was an anthropologist. We also met three guys form Singapore who were traveling around Korea (and I think asia) it was cool to compare all the places we'd been. We also met a student from Seoul. Part of what makes hostels so awesome is the people there and the hosts (who were also great). There were a couple little boys around too who say me and started saying 'waygook' (foreigner) to their mother watching me with wide eyes. I laughed at this and the mother realizing I understood tried speaking to me in Korean, which was a bit of a lost cause since my Korean isn't that good. We had to finish drinking by 11pm so we went to bed around then too (hostel rules). The next day we were going to Bulgoksa a famous Korean temple.

The bus trip to the temple was a bit long, but it was pretty beautiful. It went by a really large lake (river?) and through a resort area with tons of beautiful buildings. We saw a temple under construction as well. When we arrived at the temple it was super busy. This is one of the more popular temples in Korea. It was a short walk up to the temple and as with most things in Gyeongju we had to pay to get in.

The temple was huge, I think it was the largest one I've been too. It is also special because it houses some ancient pagoda's. Michael asked us if we had 50 won on us (which is about 5 cents and a coin) Lori had a couple and he said we should have them ready. When we got into the main courtyard of the temple he said to get out our coins and hold them up to the pagoda, it was the pagoda on the coin! So funny Michael. Unfortunately one of the pagoda's was under construction and had a huge building built around it to protect it so we couldn't get a look at it easily. As I said the temple was huge, it seemed to not end. There were tons of tiny, little temples all around the main building. The main entrance to the temple was probably the most spectacular part with giant stairs going up to it and a beautifully decorated building, stretching across the entrance (I can't do it justice here, please see my photos on facebook from Gyeongju!). I ended up taking tons of pictures of the temple because it was so beautiful. I loved it there, I only wish it had been less busy there were people everywhere.

After the temple we were getting hungry so we went across the street to a small strip mall type complex to look for food. I guess not that many people go over there because it was near lunch time and the place looked deserted. As soon as we walked up a korean woman came over and tried to get us to come to her restaurant. It was uncomfortable. We told her we weren't interested, but as ajuma's do she followed us and continued to try and get us to her place. As we walked further we say more and more ajuma's hanging around outside their restaurants or stores. The atmosphere was strange because nobody was around so we decided to leave. I felt a bit bad, clearly business wasn't that good, but being stared and followed was pretty uncomfortable for us in that situation.

So we headed back to Gyeongju. By the time we got there I was starving so I told the others we needed to stop for some food. I'm glad we did. We found a cute little hole in the wall kind of place with one other man eating there. He spoke fairly good English and chatted with us while we order. The food wasn't the most amazing I'd eaten, but you can't complain when you were as hungry as we were. Lori ordered some kimbap (seaweed and rice rolls) and Michael and I got some ramen. Kimbap is a kind of snack food or side dish in Korea, usually you have it with something else. So when Michael and I didn't give Lori some of our ramen (she didn't actually want any) one of the ajuma's came over and gave her some of her own noodles.

The man we were chatting with left part way through our meal, but he bought us patbingsu (shaved ice with sauce and toppings) before he left so we were very happy and grateful towards him. The patbingsu was delicious, but it's a pretty hard dessert to mess and so good that you can't really go wrong with it.

After lunch we headed to the museum, which was huge. There were about 4 large buildings full of artifacts from Gyeongju and the silla dynasty. It had some beautiful things in it. I especially liked the crowns and jewellery (you should google the silla dynasty crowns they are very unusual looking). There was also an art museum with many statues of buddha, it was interesting to see all the different ways he was depicted. The whole thing was very simple and, I thought, well curated, you didn't feel overwhelmed even though there was a lot of stuff to see.

Eventually it was time to return home, we walked from the museum to the bus station. I remember on one of the walks by the giant burial mounds there was a family hanging out on a blanket on the grass. I think they were eating too, but I honestly don't think I was close enough to tell. I couldn't help imagining that my next trip to Gyeongju would be something like that. Sitting under the shade of an ancient burial mound with some good friends and a role of kimbap.

We also caved to our hungry and grabbed some of the special Gyeongju bread, which looks like small buns but they're filled with red bean paste (which I love, but is a bit of an acquired taste for some people). They were the perfect snack to take on the long bus ride home (which ended up being a lot longer than the bus ride there because it took a different route and hit up a bunch of other cities along the way).

Arriving 'home' in Changwon still feels strange to me. I still feel like I'm on an adventure even though I know I'm just going to catch the bus home and sit and watch tv and make food. It still feels a bit foreign and overwhelming when I get off that bus and see the strange landscape, but still at the end of the day, I feel most comfortable in my little room writing or watching tv or reading or cooking. It's all quite comfortable now.

An Update and Jon's visit

So I know I haven't blogged in awhile and I'm sorry. Honestly I've just been too busy! Busy with friends, my boyfriend visiting, korean class and everything else under the sun.

I hardly ever have a weekend off and I'm woefully behind on my other projects such as finishing all the tv shows I'm behind on, colouring, letter writing and writing, I know, I know important stuff.

So I do plan to update you on a few things you're probably wondering about, I know the last post I wrote was about korean and my korean class so I'll pick up after that with my Guest English Teacher workshop.

This event was amazing. Before this I'd only met one other public school english teacher so I was super excited to meet other teachers and I did! I met a bunch of really cool people who have since then introduced me to other really cool people and etc. One of the guys I actually already knew, but I didn't realize he also worked at a public school.

The work shop also went over what our roles were supposed to look like, ideas to use in the class room and other interesting stuff about Korean culture (a lot of it I already knew). It also provided free lunch and snacks which was nice.

Finally I had some friends with the same schedule as me which has been amazing. There really isn't much else to say about the conference. For me, the most interesting part was just meeting the other teachers and talking about our experiences.

Other cool things I've done since then has been just hanging out with friends, going on the standard trips and stuff. We went to the art gallery one weekend which was really cool, I saw the new avengers movie which I loved then proceeded to go home and watch all the other avengers movies in that same week... I know I know, life goals, right?

Basically I spent a lot of time counting down until Jon got here! I was very nervous and excited to have someone to show around and hang out with. Nervous because I wasn't sure if he'd like Korea or how we should spend our time or where we would go or if he'd like my friends and etc. Also because I hadn't seen him in so long. It felt like two worlds were colliding.

I know my world at home and my world here are both very real, tangible places with very real and important people in them, but honestly it always feels like this world is separate from that world. I feel like a different person here, I have so much freedom and free time. I am so much more financially independent than I've ever been before and independent in other ways too, there's no family or circle of old friends to rely on and though that sounds like a bad thing, it's actually sort of great too. It gives you that extra push to move outside your comfort zone and make new friendships with people you ordinarily wouldn't or to do things you normally wouldn't. It really allows you to have a lot of freedom in a way I hadn't experienced before.

So basically that made the whole thing feel strange, but I was also excited because who wouldn't be after not seeing their boyfriend for 7 months? Also, I realized that week that was arriving on our anniversary which was pretty cool.

Luckily we found plenty to do, we went to the other two neighbourhoods in Changwon, Jinhae and Masan and we ate lots of yummy korean foods and walked all around the city looking at neat stuff. I was most worried about what Jon would do while I was at work, but it ended only being a few days we were separate because I had a along weekend and then the second week he was here I got sick and had to stay home.

I also impressed myself with how much Korean I understood and could use. Reading and listening, it was a relief. I thought I'd be fumbling around the menus and not understanding more than I was. It definitely made the Korean lessons worth it. Actually, I would forget Jon couldn't read the Korean and we'd be looking at the menu and ask about something I'd be like it's blah blah blah and then see it says beef right there and he'd just look at me blankly.... oh yeah, you can't read the Korean, sorry... haha. I'm used to spending time with people who can read Korean fairly well so it was easy to forget.

I also, showed him how to get around and where all the cool stuff was near my house so he had places he could easily find while I was at work, He seemed to manage quite well and went all over the place while I was working which I was happy about.

The only crappy thing that happened was getting sick. He had a cold and then I got a fever or flu or something the last week he was there, it was a blessing in disguise though because I felt so crappy I ended up taking two days off work and could spend more time with him, although I was too tired to do very much which sucked, I mostly just felt like sleeping. I finally felt completely recovered at the beginning of this week (I also got a cold at the same time and my allergies had been dreadful).

Some of the stranger/funnier things that happened were when we'd go out to eat and not understand what the Korean's were saying to us. One place we went to we were pretty sure we got some free meat, but not 100% because we weren't sure what we'd ordered to beginning with (only that it was samgyapsal) then we also tried to order some citron soju (a popular Korean drink) but the lady didn't know what I was talking about... I finally showed her a picture on google and she understood perfectly.

Another time we went for soft tofu stew at a place I'd never been to and the lady showed us how to make tea from our rice crusted on the bottom of the dish (I forgot what it's called, but yes, it's a thing here). She got so worried that we weren't making it (I think because the dishes were getting cold) that she came over and started scooping our rice out... then she saw I hadn't started eating right away and was worried the soup was too spicy for me (she had to write the word down because I couldn't understand her) I tried desperately to convey that the soup was fine, but she didn't seem to believe me and then brought us an extra side dish of fish, which we weren't even able to eat... there was already tons of food. It was pretty awkward.

When you order spicy food in Korea they always tell you that it's spicy... for some reason they don't believe us when we say it's fine. It's kinda funny actually. My favourite dining experience was when we went for ramen and they had a show with cute kids hanging out with their dads on the tv. It was right in front of me so I ended up watching it the entire time, also, Korean kids are ridiculously cute. They have really round, chubby faces with cute pink cheeks and it's completely adorable.

I was pretty sad by the time Jon had to go, it was so fun having him here! It made me miss everyone at home more too. Still, I love it here and I want to finish my time before I head out on my next adventure hopefully somewhere else equally amazing and fun.

So lots of other great things have happened as well, but I honestly don't want to make this any longer since I think it'd be annoying to read. Hopefully you guys all enjoy this! Next weekend I'm going to Namhea for the holiday long weekend here (Buddha's birthday, yes that's a thing) so I'll have lots of adventure and fun to write about. '

Korean 101

I recently started studying Korean. Properly, I mean. I tried to study on my own, but I'm a terrible self-starter and I really enjoy collaborative environments so I knew taking a class would be a better option for me. It is definitely the right choice.

First, I want to introduce a little bit about Korean to you guys because I know you're reading this and feeling pretty impressed with my mad memorization talent and language skills. First thing first the Korean alphabet is actually called Hangul (Korean's don't even actually call themselve korean or the country korea... it's a bit weird if you think about it). It was invent by Sejong the Great a Korean king. He invented a phonetic alphabet because most common people did not have access to the education of the rich. Before this Korea used Chinese characters. Chinese is still used in Korea today, but to a smaller degree than in Japan. It's mostly just used for news papers and when they wanted to save space. Lots of Korean words are derived from Chinese words because of this. Anyway Sejong the Great is on all Korean money and they even have a holiday to celebrate the alphabet. To say the least Korean's are pretty proud of their alphabet. 

Okay, so I know some of you are going wow isn't Korean like really really hard? You must have to remember so many characters, it is an asian language after all. Not the case at all. Korean is phonetic which means all it's characters combine to make different sounds, thus making different meanings, pretty similar to English. And no there are not thousands of characters like in Chinese there are only 29 letters which can be broken down a number of ways. They have consonants and vowels just like English as well. Of course, also like English vowels and consonants can combine and make new sounds which makes even more characters, but I won't get into that. In their more basic form there are 29 characters. 

The reason Korean looks sort of similar to Chinese with the block-y looking 'characters' is because you write Korean in block form rather than in a row. You also read Korean left to right like English. But Terri, what about these block things? What's that about? So basically each block is a syllable. It's easiest to illustrate using a word. I'll use the word love today because it's pretty easy with only two syllables. Love in Korea is salang or sarang: 사랑 so the separate syllables are 사 (sa) 랑 (rang/lang) if you write it out without the blocks it looks like this: ㅅ ㅏ ㄹ ㅏ ㅇ so you can see where the blocks are. Pretty neat huh? Also, when you type in Korean the computer knows when you're trying to make a block and automatically puts the characters into the correct block as you type. 

So there are some rules about blocks... it's a bit confusing and I haven't learned everything yet but basically you cannot start a word with just a vowel you must put either a placeholder or a consonant. The place holder is: ㅇ. You may have noticed I also used it in the word 사랑 in this instance it is at the end of the word. How do I know it's at the end? It's at the bottom of the block. When it's at the end it makes a ng sound, but at the beginning it is silent. For example you cannot write ㅏ (a) you must write 아 (which just means 'oh' in English) but it's pronounced 'a' not 'nga'.

Another thing you may have noticed about 사랑 is I romanized it too ways. In Korean there is no 'l' sound or 'r' sound (actually most Korean letters only sound vaguely like there romanized counterparts, but this one is special). ㄹ is the character in Korean and it can make different sounds depending what is beside it etc. It doesn't make a sound I know how to describe, sometimes you hear it and think L then in a different place it sounds more like R, but often it doesn't sound like either. It is tricky trying to romanize any Korean words or sounds because even though a lot of the sounds in Korean seem similar to the English counter part they will have more than one sound depending what characters they are combined with or depending where they are in the word. For example there is a city in Korea called Busan (부산) which used to be romanized as Pusan simple because the 'ㅂ' sound is somewhere between a 'b' and a 'p' sound, I think it also depends where it falls in the word. Sometimes you also see kimchi romanized as gimchi because 'ㄱ' falls in between the 'k' and 'g' sound, but sound different at the end of words. It gets even more confusing when you add double consonants to the mix. 

Hopefully this isn't a confusing explanation. I want to write this simply without overwhelming everyone, but there are many differences in Korean and English so it takes a little explanation. 

Okay, enough Korean lessons. I want to talk about some of the differences in mean which I think gives interesting insight into Korean culture. First hello in Korean is annyeonghaseyo (언녕하세요) which if you translate it in google is literally hello, but actually in Korean it means (roughly) are you at peace. When you say goodbye there are two ways one for the person staying and one for the person going they both start with annyong, but end differently. Their rough translation is 'go in peace' and 'stay in peace' (there are various other ways to say goodbye and hello as well, but these are the most common).

I know some of you who are familiar with other Asian cultures or other Asian languages may be wondering about polite language and yes, Korean does have polite language. The the greetings in the last paragraph are all polite language. Polite language is used in various situations. Such as, talking to strangers, talking to people who are older than you, talking to superiors at work and etc. You can talk to your friends in informal language and there is a slightly different way to say things or different words to use. Mostly I've learned polite language because it is the safest to use. In certain situations where you are unsure which language to use you should always revert to polite language (I believe). I don't know much about it, but in some instances there is very polite language. 

The very last thing I should mention, that you've probably heard about around the web is Konglish. Now from my understanding (but don't quote me on this) Konglish seems to refer to two things. 1) Badly or Koreanized English translations and 2) Koreanized English words used in Korean. And there are a lot of them. The most common one I hear all the time is 커피 romanized as keopi. Can you guess what it is? Try saying it out loud a couple times. It kinda sounds like copy, right? Well it's not copy... it's coffee! That's right! Korean's love their coffee. There is no 'f' sound in Korean so 'f' are changed to 'p'. Similarly with 'v' so if you say elevator it is 'ellibeiteo'. Another thing that happens in Korean is because you cannot put two consonants together at the beginning of words you have to add a sound in between and sounds often get added to the end of words as well. Bus because 'beosue', sunglasses -> seongeullaeseu. You get the idea. The last thing that happens is Koreans take English words and the meaning changes slightly. I learned that the word 'hunting' has a slightly different meaning in Korean. It means to pick up girls or guys. So I guess you're hunting for guys or girls, I asked my Korean friend about it and she said it isn't as common now, but it sure sounds funny to me! 

So now you (hopefully) know something about Korean. I hope I didn't overwhelm you all with all this information! This is honestly just the tip of the iceberg. Please don't think this is a guide to learn Korean by, this is simply what I know and hopefully it can give people some knowledge about some differences in the languages which makes communication, interesting at times. I want to talk more about other things, but I honestly don't know enough about them to do them any justice! I don't speak Korean well at all. I can say a few words well (which is a great way to impress your coworkers apparently) and I can understand more than I can speak. Right this second I heard my coworker saying something I understood at least two words of. Reading and learning the alphabet is honestly the easiest part of learning Korean, but don't think for a second if you can read the sounds you are going to have any idea what it says. According to my friends who've learned Korean the grammar and verb conjugations are the trickiest parts (I've barely learned basic vocab). 

Personally I think learning a language when you're living in a different country 

(and teaching English) is a great way to connect with the people there, learn more about their culture and have a better understanding of how the kids feel learning English. Also, the kids love it when I can understand their Korean. I've surprised a few kids by answering them when they said 'teacher' in Korean (seonseangee) and I really surprised them today because one of them asked if I spoke Korean in Korean and I said no I don't speak Korean. The students were pretty confused by that one! Haha. 

Okay, really wrapping this up now. I'm enjoying learning a little bit more about Korea by learning the language and plus language learning is fun and useful. I recommend trying to learn the language of the country you're living in if you ever live abroad. Seriously. Do it. Okay, really, that's it.